soldering station

I have designed a new soldering station.

This project is no longer supported. The download files are still available to download below if you want to build it.

A soldering station is probably one of the first things a maker should invest in. The ability to build your own equipment is what quilifies you as a maker. Building my own soldering iron controller was in my To-Do list for months. I found a cheap chinese clone of the Hakko 907 iron and discovered that there are a lot of diy controllers for this iron out there.

I used an Arduino pro mini compatible board to keep it simple and open source so other makers could build it and improve it. I discovered Kuro's soldering station and decided to build my controller based on his with a few additions. I used his firmware to control the temperature with PID. Also I use an RGB LED and a bar graph on the screen to visualize the tip temperature. The extra buttons on my board are used to control the screen brightness and enable/disable rounded temperature. The brightness value and the P, I, D parameters are stored in the EEPROM.

Update:

I have made a few changes in the firmware. Some of them require changes or additions on the PCB and inside the iron’s handle.
– I added a buzzer that beeps on every button press and when the station enters sleep mode or turns off. I soldered it directly on pin 13 of the arduino pro mini.
– A lot of people were asking for sleep mode. I added a function that turns off the heater after a predefined time period but that wasn’t enough. I soldered a reed swith inside the iron’s handle. It’s connected between Analog 4 (Digital 18) and ground pins of the pro mini. I added a magnet on my base. When I leave the iron on the base, the reed switch closes and it enters sleep mode after 30″ (target temperature: 150°C). After 5′ in sleep mode the heater turns off.
-For safety reasons the heater turns off if something goes wrong and the temp exceeds the MAX temp + 30°C for more than 5″.
-I added a new progress bar on the screen and a new temp icon. Also the duty cycle is shown on the screen.
-As you can see on the video below there is a boot screen that goes away when I put the iron on the base. That way I always remember to put it on the base before turning it on for the first time and prevent entering sleep mode before reaching the target temperature.

I still have to calibrate it by measuring the actual temperature of the tip with an external device but that would be as easy as changing two parameters.

Enter your email to receive all the necessary files (source code, schematic, PCB files).

Downloads: 4037, zip 272.66 KB

    159 replies on “soldering station“

    • Juancarlos

      Gracias por compartir su proyecto, mi pregunta es que se debe modificar para usar un soldador con termopar?
      Gracias espero puedas responderme

      Reply

    • Ct boys

      I installed it using arduino 1.8.10-windows. actually I do not understand the program. But I’ll try again later. Thank you

      Reply

    • Ct boys

      sir I have tried your project. and it worked. but there is a problem in auto off. can the auto off be arranged according to our needs. Thank you for the help.

      Reply

    • ASoares

      I decided to try out this version since the board for the new station is not available to buy. I have most of the parts so there is virtually no investment. Anyway i will make some changes. First i will not use a reed switch and instead i will make a “Sensor connection” from the REED input in the arduino to the iron holder. That way the input is grounded via the iron itself when on stand (but it only works with metal holders of course) and also there is no need to change the code.
      I will also change the “iron power section” because i do not believe the 5v from the arduino will saturate the MOSFET and allow the full 24v to be delivered to the heater. A optocoupler (PC817) and a IRFZ44N should handle the job and possibly lower the heating time.
      Also i have some other Amp-Ops (AD822,LM358,etc) to try out. But that all together is almost another soldering station LOL. I will update this after the build.

      Reply

    • Damir

      I made this project but i have problem. It always reads temperature around 740. I made modification at iron handle /reed switch/ and I see square sign /magnet on handle/.

      Reply

      • Giannis

        It means that it doesn’t read the temperature from the iron’s thermistor. Check the connections between your iron and the pcb.
        You should see the square symbol only when the reed switch is close to the magnet. If you see it permanently it means that the reed switch is closed. Check if it is damaged. You may have a short on the pcb or the arduino itself.

        Reply

    • Giorgio

      ciao,
      nell’ ultima versione del pcb tu hai usato un rotary encoder mentre nello schema indica un potenziometro. Secondo lo sketch di arduino quale devo usare?
      Inoltre non capisco Q2 e Q3 per cosa vengono utilizzati

      Reply

      • Giannis

        Hello,
        The new PCB is a completely different project from this one. The information you see (rotary encoder, Q2, Q3 e.t.c) is relevant to the new project, not this one.
        You can find all the information about the new project and watch the video here.

        Reply

    • Geoff

      Hi, I am building your project on a breadboard first but cannot figure out where the wires from the handle connect to the components on the board. It has the same colored cables as yours but the ohm measurements are the opposite to the schematic. Mine are Red & Green 6.7 ohms and Blue & White 38.9 @ 25C.
      Any help is greatly appreached.
      Geoff

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Chinese manufacturers are not famous for their consistency. They probably didn’t solder them the same way with mine.
        You should connect the red & green on P2 connector (Iron_PWR).
        Connect the blue & white on P3 connector (Iron_Sens).

        Reply

        • CÍCERO GOMES

          GOOD DAY NOBLE IOANNIS !!! ALL QUIET ??? I LIVE IN SOUTH AMERICA, IN BRAZIL.

          ALREADY FOR TWO TRYING THAT I MADE THE ASSEMBLY OF THIS BELOVED TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER FOR WELDING IRON. I AM USING A CHINESE NANO ARDUINE AND A WELDING IRON CLONED BY CHINA, HAKKO 907.
          THESE TWO TIMES YOU MAY OBSERVE SOME DEFECTS AND / OR IRREGULARITIES THAT DO NOT APPEAR IN YOUR VIDEO DEMONSTRATION ON YOUTUBE. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF YOUR FINAL PROJECT USES A ROTARY ENCODER BECAUSE THE FILES THAT YOU LEFT FOR DOWNLOAD IS OF A VERSION FOR POTENTIOMETER. IS THAT I AM WITH THE WRONG ARCHIVES ??? !!!

          IDEAL VERSION OF ARDUINO 1.8.7

          1- BUZZER ISSUES AN EXTERNAL NOISE AT LOW FREQUENCY.
          2- I DO NOT HAVE PROGRESS / SUCCESS IN THE AUTOTUNE FUNCTION. AUTOTUNE IS NOT STARTED AND DOES NOT LEAVE THE SCREEN.

          I ASK YOU, BY GENTILEZA, WHAT IS WRONG? ARDUINO COMPILER MAKES COMPILATION WITHOUT POINTING ERRORS. I DO UPLOAD FOR NANO ARDUINO WITHOUT ANY PROBLEM.
          HELP ME NOBLE FRIEND IOANNIS !!!
          OBS: YOU HAVE A SITE WITH THIS PROJECT IN GREATER DETAILS ??? CAN YOU TELL ME ADDRESS ???

          Reply

    • Hemant

      Hallo sir your project was very nice.i bild this project 1st time and he work very well but 2nd time commpling the code just error massage- i uiron_controller_v06b:562: error: ‘class Button’ has no member named ‘listen’
      heatButton.listen();
      i am use arduino 1.8.5v ple.help me

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Sorry for the late reply. Have you solved it? I’ve never had a compile issue.
        I’d suggest you to reinstall Arduino IDE. Also download and reinstall the necessary libraries.

        Reply

    • Đoàn Hưng

      Hello! I have followed your instructions, everything ok, but it’s not running, just show the title and stand still, you please help me
      thank you

      Reply

      • ioannis

        I use a reed switch with a magnet next to the stand to identify if the iron is on the stand and put it in sleep mode after an amount of time.
        The first time I turn it on, I want to be on the stand and I use this “boot screen” to be reminded to let it on the stand.
        You can disable the boot screen if you don’t want this feature.
        int boot_screen = 0;

        Reply

    • UFO

      Hello still have ver.1 soldering station in operation can me who please help in adjusting the temperature in the code m.f.g

      Hallo habe noch ver.1 Lötstation in betrieb kann mir bitte wer beim abgleichen der temparatur im code behilflich sein m.f.g

      Reply

    • kolux

      Loading C:/Users/zdzicho/Desktop/Hakko_PCB/hakkoPCB/hakkoPCB.sch …

      Error:

      line 1, column 1: Start tag expected.
      I can not open your files an error like above appears

      Reply

      • ioannis

        I think you haven’t installed the required libraries successfully and you might have multiple copies of the same library. Clear your libraries folder and reinstalled all the required ones.

        Reply

    • Charles

      Thank you for your reply in my previous comment, and I think my answer was stray in other thread… According to your information that I should get the logic level mosfet, I found the IRLZ44 locally but unfortunately it’s out of stock cuurently. The other plenty available option now was : IRLB3034 and FQP30N06L, is it applicable for your designed circuit? For the MCP602 I found it to finally, so it should be no problem 🙂

      Reply

    • Charles

      I’ve receive the link to the PCB, thx. But After I checked the parts…it seems the mosfet was hard to find locally. Can it be substituted with IRF1010 or IRFZ44N? both much more available in my area. Also, MCP602..can it be replace with LM358?

      Reply

      • ioannis

        You need a logic level mosfet so you could use the IRLZ44N and not the IRFZ44N. I haven’t tried it but it should work.
        The LM358 is not as good choice as the MCP602. It will work but not as it should be. You can find the MCP602 online.

        Reply

    • Zinci

      Hi,
      I have the Eagle files on Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B64VL9XvUPuyMzVINUY4MGZDV0E?usp=sharing). The schematics is from the original diagram and does not have the connections for the buzzer and the reed switch. I tried to keep the original Kicad layout as much as I could. If Ioannis allows the Eagle files to be shared I will leave the Google Drive open, otherwise I will remove them, as this is his project.

      Next, for me, will be to try and make a new design incorporating the latest changes (buzzer, reed switch…), encoder etc. but probably not worrying much about the original Kicad layout. I will also remove the connector P8 for VAA-VDD using only the LM317 as main supply for VCC. Also I will drop the connector P6. I think these are not needed and take up the PCB space. I have looked into possibility of using UNO but it is not worth the trouble porting the code and using less inputs crippling the usability of the iron. Mini is also as cheap if not cheaper than UNO.

      Reply

    • diltech

      Hi,
      I had build this project. I don’t know why, i can’t exit to see temp because i have always welcome screen. I do many time autotune, but after that nothing hapend, just return to welcome screen. I need help about that. I push all buttons but nothing ???

      Thank

      Reply

      • ioannis

        This is happening because you don’t have a reed switch at analog pin 4.
        Normally the boot screen goes away if I put the iron on the base. That reminds me to have the iron on the base before pressing the ON button. As I wrote above “That way I always remember to put it on the base before turning it on for the first time and prevent entering sleep mode before reaching the target temperature.”
        If you don’t want a reed switch inside you iron that enables sleep mode, you could either connect analog pin 5 (digital 18) to ground or change boot_screen from 1 to 0.

        Reply

        • Charles

          Thank you for the information. I’ll try searching the logic level mosfet in Indonesian market, the MCP602 indeed available online in some online-store and I could get it. The mosfet maybe the most challenging to find.

          Reply

      • Diltech

        Hi,
        Gotcha! Thank for this hint. Now it’s work. I have an other question. How can see analog value when i heat. I want adjust my three values @ 200, 300 and 400 for more accurate my temp. I see in the code this option:

        uint8_t showAnalog = ON; //show analog values in PID values view
        But i can’t see analog when i see PID values.

        Thank

        Reply

        • ioannis

          Do you get the message “Please Connect Iron” if you disconnect it?
          I have defined TEMP_WO_IRON 749 which is the analog value when I disconnect my iron. Does this work for you?
          What do you see when you press the 4th button? The analog data should be on the bottom right of the screen. Do you get the actual temp of the iron while it’s heating?

          Reply

    • Molodchaga

      Тell me please? There is a soldering iron with an A1321 heater and a soldering station for your project. The power supply unit is 4-6 A. The resistance of the cold heater is 3.7 Ohm. And this, as far as I understand, ismore than 6A at 24V voltage. Why write about them power 50W? The power supply is constantly on the cold heater goes into protection. I heat a little the heater on the gas, its resistance increases and the station starts. What am I doing wrong?

      Reply

      • Molodchaga

        Is it possible to programmatically set a power value of 70-80% until the temperature of the soldering iron reaches 60-70 degrees?

        Reply

      • Molodchaga

        Changed the value of PWM_MAX to 768, the soldering station is switched on, but the duty value on the screen is no longer displayed. Indicates always 0.

        Reply

      • ioannis

        Hello,
        do you still have issues with the firmware?
        If you set PWM_MAX to 768 you should be fine.
        I just noticed the problem with the duty cycle on the screen you posted. It’s a limitation of the “map” function that works only with integers.
        To fix it change this line:
        if (heater_mode) power = map(duty, 0, PWM_MAX, 0, PWM_MAX/1023*100);
        with this:
        if (heater_mode) power = duty * (100.0/PWM_MAX);
        or with this if you want the maximum duty cycle that’s printed on the screen to be PWM_MAX/1023*100% instead of 100%:
        if (heater_mode) power = duty * (100.0/1023);

        Reply

      • Molodchaga

        Thanks, it helped. But still the soldering station does not work as consistently as on your video. Apparently, whence there is interference: analog data of PTC constantly changes to large values, if I hold the soldering iron in my hands the icon of the base on the screen constantly appears, then it disappears, well, the PID algorithm itself works unclear. When the soldering iron is heated, the temperature exceeds the set temperature by 50-60 degrees and then slowly falls to the preset temperature. I’m new to this, but I want to finish it …

        Reply

      • ioannis

        Do you see inconsistent analog data even when the iron is cold or only while it heats up? The inconsistency of the analog data may be a problem with the op-amp chip. Have you used the MCP602 like me? Also verify that the capacitors of the op-amp are connected in your circuit and the cables of the iron are in good shape. If it’s not fixed try a different iron.
        Have you made the modifications in your iron with the reed switch inside it like mine? If not maybe that’s why you see the square icon on the screen. I’l love to see a picture or a video of your soldering station.
        The problem with the overheating is known and you could try to fix it by changing the P,I,D constants. There are no magic numbers, you chould try different values and test it. The autotune algorithm could work (not so well) but you should have your iron preheated at 150-180 ˚C before starting the autotune process because there are many errors on analog data reads at lower temperature values.

        Reply

      • Molodchaga

        I see inconsistent analog data only when the soldering iron is warming up. When it’s cold or when it’s already hot, but push the button to turn it off, the analog data values ​​are stable. The same situation is with the base icon. Only when the soldering iron is turned on and heated, then the icon appears and disappears. If you click the switch off all is displayed correctly. I read that this can be due to the interference that the mosfet creates. I dropped it out of the board and carried it away on the wires from Arduino. But it did not help.
        I tried to use separate power for arduino and soldering iron. But it did not help either.
        The operational amplifier MCP602 I did not find and used MCP607.
        I have a mosfet IRFZ44. But it seems that it works poorly from 5 V. I want to replace it with IRL640. This is the logic level of the mosfet.
        Unfortunately the video of how the station works now I can not do, because during my experiments I accidentally burned OpAmp. (I tried to put LM358 – it’s all bad .When I buy OpAmp I’ll take a video in more detail. Thank you for not taking me in trouble and trying to help.

        Reply

      • Molodchaga

        Here is a video of the work. I changed the mosfet, but this did not affect the work of the station. Temporarily installed LM358. On this opamp it works much worse, but the principle of incorrect operation is similar.
        https://youtu.be/waU-MZ8KO9U

        Reply

      • Molodchaga

        Please tell me what changes to make in the code to heat up to 100 degrees was at a 50% power. And after 100 degrees the power is 100%.

        Reply

      • ioannis

        You should definitely use a dual op-amp like the MCP602 and a logic level mosfet.
        I was experiencing the same issue with the inconsistent data while warming up after installing the reed switch. I had connected all the ground wires on the spring inside the iron and the ground connection was poor. I fixed it by soldering the wires on the iron’s pcb and connecting extensions for each ground wire I needed (for the spring and reed switch). I would suggest you to check the quality of the wires and their connections. Also you could try another soldering iron without modifying it.
        Download the new firmware I uploaded. I added the feature you requested to limit the power to 50% below 100˚C. Just change the PWM_LIMIT to 0.5.

        Reply

        • Molodchaga

          Thank you so much. The new firmware works as I wanted. Here’s what I did:
          1. I connected the A4 pin of arduino (pin, to which the reed is attached) to ground through a capacitor of 10 nF.
          2. I connected the output of the op-amp to ground through a capacitor of 100 nF.
          3. I dropped the mosfet from the board and carried it away from the board. I read that it can interfere with the correct operation of arduino.
          After that, it seems that everything worked as it should. The analog temperature values ​​are stable and the base icon appears only when I put the soldering iron on the base.
          Tell me how much such actions can affect the correct operation of the station?

          Reply

      • ioannis

        You should be fine with the capacitors you used. They won’t affect the operation of your station.
        The shared ground between the Arduino and the mosfet could be another reason for the interference.
        I’m glad that you found the source of your problems and fixed it.

        Reply

      • ioannis

        The first button turns on and off the heater. The second button increases the brightness. The third button switches the temp accuracy between 1ºC and 5ºC. The fourth button enables a debug screen. Keep in mind that all the settings are stored in the EEPROM only after disabling the debug screen.

        Reply

    • Crazoff

      Hello, thanks for quick response. And yet I can’t get this working. Did everything as you said. The LCD displays “Autotune PID at 250C” and nothing more happens for a long time. PS the led is Connected to D9(HEATER) see periodic pulses about 1 time per second, the soldering iron was pre-heated to 200 degrees C. Measure the tip temperature of the remote thermocouple shows about 250 degrees, and maintained. How to determine that it works correctly, how long is procedure PID autotune? Sorry for my English, I write through an interpreter.

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Have you tried it again? You should leave it for a few minutes to complete the PID autotune procedure.
        If you measure the temp and it’s been maintained at 250ºC you will be fine.

        Reply

      • ioannis

        Hello,
        have you uploaded the firmware on the controller?
        You will keep Button1 pressed while connecting the power supply and you will see a message on the screen to start the autotune process. You should press the Button2 to start.
        It works better if the iron is preheated at about 200ºC. (about 50ºC below the setpoint)
        Good luck.

        Reply

    • taabee

      Hi,
      Its not possible to open pcb flies, trayed to open with KIcad online, and easy eda online and some other online pcb viewer sites but no one open it. All the time I get the same message
      ” UNKNOWN project type ” where Im wrong please ?

      Reply

    • Jaros

      Hi, great project))
      I have an iron with a different senor. It have 52 Ohm with 20°C and as a result- 3.5v on PTC pin. Can you give me some instructions, I know the real tip temperature 20 and PTC 3.5 and what next? Where should I make changes to make everything work correct. And can you please explain Y=A×X+B, A=0.907 B=-177.81 what is this A and B, where did you get this values?
      Thank you in advance, and excuse me for this stupid questions, I am totally newbie in arduino projects

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Hello,
        have you used the same resistor values with my schematic? If it reads 52Ω you should have about 1.24V on PTC and not 3.5V. See this table to understand how Rsense affects the voltage on PTC and what value the arduino should read on that pin:
        http://i.imgur.com/gXKAnjD.png

        You could use an external device to take two measurements of the iron’s tip temp. The Y parameter is the actual temperature. Using the 4th button on the soldering station you will see the analog value of the PTC pin on the lower right of the screen. This is your X parameter. Solve the above equation using the actual temp and the analog read and you will get A and B.

        Reply

    • choi

      Hello!

      It’s an awesome job what you did. Me and my friend want to do our own based on your project. Can you send the Kicad files (PCB + custom libraries) and arduino libraries, please?

      Thanks in advance!

      Reply

    • Aftab

      I want to start that project and i would be grateful to you if you send pcb of it thanx…………………………

      Reply

    • Edi

      Hi Ioannis,
      It looks GREAT and I am interested on making it for myself. Can you please sent me a PCB file.

      Thanks in advance.

      Reply

    • David31

      Hello,

      I am very interested by your project.
      I would like to use your project for an electronics course at my city’s FabLab. It’s possible to have the PCB file?

      Thank you

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Could you explain what exactly you need to calibrate?
        Do you mean the tip’s temperature? You need an external thermometer or a multimeter with thermocouple probe.
        Then you compare this temp with the reading you get from the iron’s sensor. The sensor is connected on the PTC point on my circuit (check my schematic). If you create my station then you can get the analog reading of the sensor when you press the 4th button (bottom right of the screen).

        Reply

    • 4759sy

      hallo,
      iam newbie in microkontroler,iam using prosteus 8 and try simulating scematic,,why just lcd blank ?not showing noting..can u help me?u have file in kicad? or prosteus? thanks

      Reply

    • Christoph

      Hi there, awsome controller you made there.
      Can I ask you for those PCB files, I would love to make one of those.
      Thank you so much!

      Reply

    • Bruno Neves

      Hello.
      I have already made the Arduino Board, but I get a constant 3.64V from PTC.
      Do you have any idea?
      I am using a hakko 907.

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Do you get 3.64V on the op-amp output?
        Have you used the same resistors with me on the op-amp circuit? They are R10, R11 and R12 on my schematic.
        Verify that you use the correct pins to connect the iron on the controller. Also you may have an iron with a different sensor. Measure the resistance while its cold. My iron’s thermistor has a resistance of about 46 Ohm.
        Heat the iron with a hot air gun or a lighter and measure again the PTC voltage.

        Reply

    • nelu22

      Autotune work the same if it is complete code or eliminate bar graph. I did not think that I need preheat the iron. Good to know this trick.
      What I observe with complete code is that spare memory is to low and I get warnings from adruino compiler.
      Any way I am happy how it work now and want to thank you for sharing the project.

      Reply

    • nelu22

      I forgot to mention that I eliminate also the bar graph because the spare memory it was at limit and I think that this war the reason for that auto tune function don’t work.
      The increment of temperature set point is 5 C and the start temperature set point is 180 C.
      I put also a movie and if someone is able to change the code in PID set function because the variable that I use with the encoder is common to all 3 parameters(P I D). Also some times in this setup mode the menu counter goes crazy and I don’t know how to handle.
      For calibrate the equation I first print on lcd the voltage and temperature read by arduino port and I use an independent measure of temperature for compare.

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Does the Autotune PID work better after you eliminated the progress bar?
        I found that Autotune works better if you preheat the iron at a temp lower than the AUTOTUNE_SETPOINT and start the autotune process with a preheated iron. That happens because the cold iron gives momentarely false readings at low temperatures and the autotune algorithm assumes it reached the desired temperature.
        I used AUTOTUNE_SETPOINT 250˚C and I preheated the iron at 200˚C before starting the autotune process which took about 3 minutes to complete.

        I calibrated mine the same way with you. You need just two temp measurements to fing the EQUATION_A and EQUATION_B parameters in the equation Y=A*X+B, where Y is the actual temperature of the tip and X is the analog read value. This value is printed on the screen if you press the 4th button (at the bottom right).

        Reply

    • nelu22

      Hello,
      I use your code to make may solder station using arduino pro mini 328 16Mhz. I was forced to eliminate “autotune” function because don’t want to work or I don’t wait enough to see the results. In place of this function I decide to use just for manual input of PID values and stored to eprom when button is pressed on start-up. For control the station I use only one rotary encoder and his button and that all.
      Also in add one volt-amper meter on the second line of LCD. The AO used is MCP6024.
      Files are here : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vsw06hf1ssxnp0u/AAA2MNtyQMg2edG1P9vX87Z0a?dl=0
      Here it is arduino code and Diptrace schematic and pcb files.

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Thank for sharing, looks great!
        I had some troubles with autotune function myself and I stored the P,I,D parameters manually like you.
        The rotary encoder is the main reason I’m thinking to build another soldering station. Really like its simplicity.

        Reply

      • 4759sy

        hello,
        iam newbie in microcontroler .
        i has download software file in the dropbox. and has trouble =low memory avaible.how can i finish the problem?
        thanks

        Reply

    • Stefano

      Ciao, veramente un bel progetto, potresti inviarmi il disegno del PCB con la lista dei componenti elettronici che hai utilizzato. Grazie Mille

      —–

      Hello, a really nice project, you may send me the PCB design with the list of electronic components you used. Thank you so much

      Reply

    • Damiano

      Hello,
      I am very interested in this project.
      Could you send me the files KiCad (PCB and custom libraries) and the Arduino libraries?

      Thank you

      Reply

    • jose daniel

      Hola gran proyecto.
      ¿Me puede enviar archivos kicad (bibliotecas de PCB y personalizados)
      y las librerías de Arduino?
      Muchas gracias!
      gracias desde españa

      Reply

    • d3jota

      Hello!

      It’s an awesome job what you did. Me and my friend want to do our own based on your project. Can you send the Kicad files (PCB + custom libraries) and arduino libraries, please?

      Thanks in advance!

      Reply

    • Krzysztof

      Hello. At the beginning I’m sorry but I do not speak the language (google translator). I really like your project and would like to do the same. Can you send me kicad files (PCB and custom libraries) and the Arduino libraries? Which power supply should I use?
      Regards Krzysztof.

      Reply

    • Paul R

      Awesome job, i had no idea that people actually build their own solder station. This is amazing, i would also try to build one. If it is not to much trouble could you please send me the files also?
      Thanks in advance.

      Reply

    • DanYM

      Hey ioannis,

      Can u share whit me the files to make the pcbs ?
      I hould love to make one for me, its very cool project.

      Thank’s in the advanced

      Reply

    • Андрей Владимирович Дойников

      Can you send me kicad files PCB and custom libraries
      and the Arduino libraries?
      Thanks!!!

      Reply

    • Mihail

      Sorry for the dumb question, but I did not understand how to connect the pins LCD. Can I connect instead IRLB8721PbF IRFZZ44N? And instead of LM317 chinese DC-DC converter to 5v?

      Reply

    • konkrog

      Hi, I really like to look of the project box you have used. Is it a 3D printed box? If so – could you provide the design files for it?

      Or maybe you bought it somewhere?

      Regards,
      Knut

      Reply

    • dimitris

      Hi! I made it my friend but i have a problem.i dodnt get any heat.also the mode button showes me all values “nan”.What i miss???

      Reply

    • Zinci

      Nice project.
      If you do have PCB files in Eagle/Kicad form, why not just put them up so you won’t be asked every time someone wants them?
      Anyway, I’ll start making Eagle files now 🙂

      Reply

    • Tom

      Nice project.
      I have use for a little portable soldering station for emergency soldeing. This looks perfect for the task.
      Just need to make a lipo batterypack for this:-)
      Can you please send your kicad files and any other related files and libraries
      Is there a list of used components.
      Thanks!

      Reply

    • kevin

      looks so nice i want to build one please send me kicad files (PCB and custom libraries)
      trying to figure out schematic ..cant wait to start after watching video cheers ..kev

      Reply

    • Adam

      Hi

      Very nice project. I would like to try this out. Can you send me kicad files (PCB and custom libraries)
      and the Arduino libraries?

      Thanks

      Reply

    • Fernando Soares

      Nice project! Can you helpe-me? Can you send me kicad files (PCB and custom libraries)
      and the Arduino libraries?

      Thanks!

      Reply

    • Blallo

      Hi man! Cool project!
      Do you think that it can work -no modifications- with an arduino Uno?
      (Can i ask for kicad files too?)

      Thanks a lot!

      Reply

      • ioannis

        I have sent you the files.
        It won’t work on an UNO without some changes.
        I have used a pro mini which has more pins than the UNO and tried to use all of them.
        That’s why I added an rgb led and 4 buttons.
        You could dismiss the functions you don’t need and change the pin definitions in the firmware to match your connections.
        The only things you should keep in mind are:
        The HEATER output and the LCD_LED (if you won’t brightness control) should be PWM pins.
        Also PTC and POT should be connected on analog inputs.

        Reply

    • Phreaknes

      I am very interested in this project you have. I want to build one for myself ASAP. Do you have the eagle file for the PCB and breakdown of the parts list? I’m new to the electronics hobby and I really like the idea and look of this.

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Hello my friend,
        unfortunately I designed the board on Kicad and I don’t have Eagle files for the PCB. Tell me if you are interested in the Kicad files and I will email them to you.
        I’d be happy to see your project when it will be completed.
        Yannis

        Reply

        • Phreaknes

          I’m very interested in the Kicad files. Please send! I have a 24V 6A DC power supply that I think would be perfect for this. I think also I’m going to convert the LCD to I2C to save some pins and wiring and I have several laying around. Does your Kicad file have a component layout and part list?

          Reply

    • mke

      Hello,
      I have made this “toy” as per as per your instructions and I noticed I get to much difference between pre-set tempperature and actual solder tip temperature. Can you give me some tips where to look for my mistake??

      Thanks,
      Mike

      Reply

      • ioannis

        Hello Mike,
        What’s the temperature difference on your station?
        Have you run the autotune algorithm? You could try by keeping pressed the 4th button while powering up your controller.
        I also have an unstable tip temperature as you can see on my video. I think it has to do with the cheep thermistor that’s used on hakko clones. Try to increase the number of read values you get from the thermistor so the average would be more accurate.
        Also the power source might be the issue. Try to use a better quality and more stable power source to see if it makes any difference.
        I have changed the function of the 3rd button which allow me to show the temperature value rounded by 5°C.
        Could you show some pictures or videos of your controller in action?

        Reply

      • Luigi

        Hi Yannis,
        this is very pretty project and I wish make please sendme Kicad files for pcb and push contacts. Thanks to your mind!

        Reply

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