Soldering Station PCB for 907 iron

This is my latest soldering station project.

The new version is designed on a 2-layer PCB. You can get it from here if it’ s in stock.

Build it using these instructions and this BOM.

Read its manual and download the firmware for the new soldering station.

22 replies on “Soldering Station PCB for 907 iron

      • Blallo

        Perfect 🙂

        PS: i can’t get it to work, it is stuck to “Please connect iron”…
        do you have the hakko pinout and how to connect to the board?

      • Nghĩa

        I hope you share the above circuit diagram or can give me a picture of the circuit before and after the components are not available.
        If you agree to send images with strong prints, please send them to gmail:
        thank you

    • Giannis

      There is a pinout of my soldering iron in the instructions at the bottom but keep in mind that every clone might be different.
      Try to connect a resistor on the pcb between PTC and GND (try different values 50-200Ω). The message “Please connect iron” should go.
      Use a multimeter to measure voltage on pin 1 of the op-amp. Measure the voltage with the iron connected/unconnected and with the above resistors between PTC-GND and share with me your measurements.
      Did you follow the instructions step by step? Have you read the manual? Try to reset the EEPROM through the menu. Also try to edit and save Temp1/Data1 and Temp2/Data2.
      Let me know about your progress.

  • Artur Soares

    Great project. Unfortunatelly the board is not available to buy. Can you send the file for the board layout? If that is not possible i will probably build another station or the V1

  • Bittonet

    I mounted the circuit and everything works except the sleep mode.
    In practice, once activated in the menu, the symbol appears at the bottom left of the display and is not removed when the reed contact is open.
    Nor does the auto power off mode work.
    However, the welder works perfectly.
    Am I wrong?

  • Lucas

    Dear friend I am very happy to buy your PCB and help this project.Only two questions: what kind of ceramic capacitor between pins 8-4 on opamp is it necessary? 10n, 100n or other? Also I would like to use LCD module HD44780 16 × 2 RGB so that the color of the LCD backlighting changes as expected WS2812,you can help me?Best regards.Luca

      • Giannis

        You need a 100n ceramic cap. If your LCD is compatible with the generic HD44780 module then you could use it. I have to see its datasheet to answer for sure because I haven’t tested it.
        Why do you want to use a WS2811 IC? You could just use a WS2812 LED that you could cut from s atrip which is super cheap.

  • vahid

    hi, great work but it’s sad to see that you did not make this version open source like previous one, i really like to support your project by buying the pcb but for someone like me it’s impossible to do it and it’s because of the place i live. i did build the previous version and i’m still using it. i understand your intent and respect it. keep doing your great work 👍

  • giorgio-palma

    I downloaded the file.hex,
    How can I load the firmware on the Arduino Atmega328P? Please note that I have always used the arduino IDE to program the chip.
    I thank you

  • giorgio-palma

    In the scheme there are not the NPN transistors.
    I think that one is used for buzzer and one for brightness. It’s true?

    • Giannis

      What sheme? The schematic of this station is not uploaded. The schematic from my previous soldering station is totally different and it won’t work with the new firmware. The new firmware will only work with the newest pcb.


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